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Friday 1 October 2010

first print workshop

wow. i've never done textile printing before, so i didn't realise it was so complicated and complex. different dyes for different fabrics, different fixers, screens, mesh etc.

i have to make a print dye file that will include research, samples, materials, fabrics, recipes and notes. this will then be a constant record that i can use to become familiar with all the different processes.

some initial notes from the print workshops;
- you must have the right fabric for the right dye.
- you get different effects from using different dyes.
- cellulose fabrics: cotton, linen, hemp, jute. (natural fibres)
- protein fabrics and fibres: wool, silk, mohair, angora, cashmere. (natural fibre - animal hair)
- semi natural fibres: voscose, rayon. (regenerated cellulose by chemical treatment)
- synthetic fabrics: polyester, nylon, acrylic. (oil based)
- you can cross dye by mixing fabrics and to see what effect this has.
- wear OLD CLOTHES and gloves!



Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyescapillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design. thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by
Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:
  • Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
  • The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where the mordant was printed.
  • Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground.
  • Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.
Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours. Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.

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