machine embroidery.

Generally any fabrics, materials and threads can be used and again sustained experimentation and the evaluation of your results will enable you to find and assess the most successful ‘materials’ for your practice.
Some fabrics may need to be ‘backed’ for free machine embroidery in which case a loose weave painting canvas may be used or a product called Vilene. (Vilene is manufactured in different weights and is selected according to the weight of your material).

However if you are working with ‘translucent’ fabrics or fine silk chiffon or organza it is not appropriate for these materials to be backed. An embroidery hoop is generally used to ensure that the fabric is stretched ‘drum tight’ to facilitate the free machine embroidery stitch.

Machining
• Machine embroidery is worked using a ‘darning foot’ (Bernina Machine) or a machine embroidery foot. (Other models of sewing machine).
• The ‘feed-dog’ (feet) must be dropped because the work is moved to and fro by hand not by the feed dog.
• Varying the speed of the movement with you hand, varies the length of the stitch.
• The machine may be set for straight stitching or zig-zag stitching. Straight stitching will give the effect of a smooth mechanical line whereas zig-zag stitching will give a more random quality and can be used to build up areas of colour or tone rather than line.
• Stitching with coloured threads and fabrics allows you to explore texture, tone and colour changes for effect. For example yellow fabric with red thread on top or vica-versa will result in orange tones.
• Stitching close together gives a deeper tonal value and more texture. Stitching further apart gives less tone and texture.
• When using translucent / sheer fabrics you can layer these to ‘trap’ small fragments of yarn, cloth, thread by sewing over or around these elements.
• Vanishing muslin can also be explored. Some muslins dissolve in either hot or cold water, others using a heat process through ironing. In both instances when the vanishing muslin has disappeared only the stitching is left.
• The finished surface may be several layers thick and after stitching, it can be ‘cut-away’, ‘slashed’ or ‘frayed’ to reveal hidden under-layers of varying colour, pattern or texture.
• Randomly altering the tension on both the bottom and top threads will allow for interesting effects. For example: using a transparent or coloured thread on top and a differently coloured thread in the bobbin, tighten the top tension and loosen the bottom tension, this gives the effect of rows of little dots. Loosen the bottom thread, keeping the top tension as normal; this gives the effect of loops and vica-versa.
Ideas for further experimentation with Free Machine Embroidery technique without using thread.

Using a broken tipped needle without thread, stitch and over-stitch two pieces of fabric together. The two fabrics will become ‘bonded’. This technique will allow you to explore textural surfaces and colour mixing.
Experiment with this technique using different materials and varying sizes of needles.

NB The term ‘materials’ is used in the broadest sense and may include paper, non-textiles, metals, plastics etc.